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Fake Meat Never Tasted So Good

Fake Meat Never Tasted So Good: We Taste-Test Subway's New Vegan Subs, and Like Them

 
Photo courtesy of Compassion Over Killing

Pity the vegetarian on a long road trip. In the grand scheme of American fast food, there really aren't many palatable meatless options. If you're a vegan, it only gets more difficult to find proper sustenance in the types of restaurants that dot strip malls and highway exits.

In that, Subway's 33,000 nationwide stores have always been something of a blessing. The fast food sandwich monger has always provided its Veggie Delite to vegetarians, but that was about it. But now, there are more options to be had—and these will even appeal to vegans.

In partnership with animal rights group Compassion Over Killing, Subway recently rolled out three all-vegan sandwich options—and much to our luck, they're being tested in the D.C., Maryland and Virginia market. Since I sent Ben to taste-test Burger King's Bacon Sundae (short Ben: it was gross), it fell on me to head down to a Subway Café on Massachusetts Avenue today and sample the new vegan alternatives.

First off, a disclaimer: I don't go to Subway very often. But in the totality of American fast food, I would choose it over some of the competitors. I suppose I like the variety as much as I enjoy pretending that it's really healthy. (It's not as unhealthy as some fast food joints, but it's also fast food—and there's always plenty of extra calories secretly hidden away in its offerings.) Additionally, all words of praise here have to set to a fast food standard: good means good relative to other fast food options; we're not pitting Subway against Citronelle, after all.

My first choice was the Sweet Riblet. And why not? Non-meat meat products have certainly improved over the years, but their consistency and flavor can leave just about any meat-eater wanting. I approached this sub skeptically; I really like ribs, after all, so fake ribs just wouldn't make the grade. Or so I thought.

Though the ribs emerge from a vacuum-sealed pouch that's quickly microwaved before being unceremoniously plopped on your choice of bread—there are five vegan options: Roasted Garlic, Sourdough, Light Wheat English Muffin, Hearty Italian and Hearty Italian White—they tasted like, well, ribs.

No, a real rib aficionado wouldn't be fooled if served Subway's vegan alternative unaccompanied on a dish, but sandwiched between the bread and toppings you'd hardly fault someone for thinking they're not eating the real thing. The barbecue sauce slathered on the "ribs" even had a pleasant smokiness to it, and I had no problem wolfing down the six-inch Sweet Riblet sub. (It did have an odd aftertaste, but I've learned that plenty of meat substitutes do.) I can see this becoming a go-to option whenever I stop into a Subway, as rarely as that happens.

The Italian Black Bean sub was a little less compelling, mostly because there wasn't much to it—a halved Morningstar black bean patty is the star of this sandwich. Also thrown in the microwave, the patty became unpleasantly chewy, almost gummy. It wasn't bad—the patty itself is nicely seasoned, after all—but there wasn't much setting it apart.

I didn't get around to trying the third offering, the Malibu Greek sub, mostly because I'm not about to stomach a full foot-and-a-half worth of Subway—ever.

I'd say Subway is on the right track with its three vegan options. The standard Veggie Delite sandwich is passable, but it fails on one key point—the vegetables at Subway don't ever seem very good. The vegan alternatives—at least the Sweet Riblet—make you feel like you can pack your sandwich with something a little tastier, heartier and animal-friendly.

If you want to try the sandwiches yourself, these are the participating locations:

D.C.
555 13th St NW, Washington, DC 20005 -- 202-347-4616
455 Massachusetts Ave, NW (1st Floor) Washington, DC 20001 -- 202-638-0348
550 First St., NW, Washington, DC 20001 -- 202-661-6639

Maryland
8145 Main St, Ellicott City, MD 21043 -- 410-418-4330
5520 Research Park Dr, #107, Catonsville, MD 21228 -- 410-455-5222
300 Sentinel Dr, #100, Annapolis Junction, MD 20701 -- 301-490-6553

Virginia
320 King St, Alexandria, VA 22314 -- 703-879-4321
2361 Eisenhower Ave, Alexandria, VA 22314 -- 703-879-4321